Late March to early April, the temperature in Seville (Spain) climbs to 20 degrees Celsius, the perfect temperature for a city trip. Part two of my wanderings through this delightful city.
A market on excavations
Across from El Faro on the Isabel II Bridge is the old market of Triana where you find good fish, fresh fruits and vegetables. And there is a mini theatre with several dozen chairs where every now and then performance is held. Also, there is a perfect sushi bar. Next to the market is Castello de San Jorge, now a museum with excavations that are found under the market. Admission is free. The tiled domes next to the museum house a chapel. Many passers-by quickly hit a cross as they walk by.
Former gipsy district
Triana was formerly a working-class district with lots of creative people. Still there live plenty of flamenco dancers, bullfighters, actors, and singers, and there are established several ceramics businesses. The Trianeros don’t consider themselves Sevillanos. Some say (jokingly) that they are going to Sevilla when they cross the bridge to the old centre.
City trip Seville: Modern museum
On the Triana side of the river is a museum that most tourists skip but is definitely worth visiting; CAAC (Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo) is located in an ancient monastery that later became a ceramics factory, as the thick chimneys still show. In the old areas of the monastery and factory, are changing exhibitions.
Stroll along the river banks
The bridge Puente de la Cartuja leads to the other side of the river. From there, it is a pleasant stroll along the shores all the way to La Torre dell’Oro. Nice and quiet and you have a chance to admire some street art along the way.
You will pass the Plaza de Toros bullfighting arena. Unfortunately, there are still bullfights held in the city. But if there are no fights, you can visit the arena. The building is really worth it.
The art of eating tapas
Sevillanos are real tapeadors and tapear, or going on a tapas crawl, is a favourite pastime. One of my favourite restaurants is La Chunga, Calle Arjona 13 due to the trendy décor, which is quite unique in Seville, but also because of its creative dishes. You will eat the best salmorejo of the city. And also, the risotto with zucchini and truffle and Parmesan cheese is a good choice. The cava is a must, even if you have nothing to celebrate. La Chunga is just a few minutes walking from Puento Isabel, II but most tourists do not find it. What a pity.
Restaurant: eating with locals
Where I also like to go to is Patio San Eloy, Calle San Eloy 9. It is a traditional restaurant with hams hanging above the bar. In the back is a tiled staircase where you can sit. It is always busy around lunchtime. One of the favourite dishes is tarta vegetal, a type of savoury pie made with white bread, vegetables, tuna, tomato, and mayonnaise. You can order a whole pie when you’re with a group or just a slice. It’s nutritious food, so sharing a slice is often enough. If you’re looking for more tapas restaurants, go to La Alameda. Once, this was the meeting place for the upper class, later it turned into a run-down neighbourhood with a lot of prostitution. But after a recent refurbishment, it has become a vibrant neighbourhood with excellent nightlife.
City trip Seville: cycle with a local
Cycling is an ideal way to explore Seville. Andalucia Bike Tour organises guided tours. They leave at ten o’clock at La Torre del Oro, Paseo de Cristóbal Colón. From there you cycle in three hours along the highlights of the city. The guides are all locals, so they can also give you great insider tips for the rest of your stay.
Feria de Abril: let’s party!
Spaniards know how to throw a party, and that can easily take a week as the Feria de Abril. You see parades, elegant women in flamenco dresses, men in sharp suits on horsebacks and carriages drive back and forth to the city centre. Order a rebujito (sherry mixed with a soft drink) and join the party!
More Seville (or Sevilla)
Also read the first part of my city break Seville with with many more tips for sightseeing and fun things to do
Looking for a hotel?
- If you have something to celebrate, then you choose Hotel Alfonso XIII, the most iconic hotel in the city in the historic quarter of Santa Cruz. It’s a classic hotel commissioned by one of the former kings to play host to international dignitaries during the 1929 Exhibition. It has amazing antique furniture, but it also features a modern swimming pool.
- Much more affordable and modern is the four-star NH Sevilla Plaza de Armas. Also centrally located and close to all the highlights of the city. The biggest bonus is the pool on the roof.
- For a good bargain, try Ayre Hotel Sevilla. Sometimes you will find a room for less than 50 euros. Their roof-top terrace is overlooking La Giralda and the Cathedral. And when you’re there, why not try the Spa for some relaxing moments.